Ceiling fan hook up instructions

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How To Uninstall A Light Fixture Or Ceiling Fan Turn the power off at the circuit breaker and the wall switch. Pull the electrical wires down through the bracket.

Installing Ceiling Fans with Pre-Existing Light Fixtures The most common ceiling fan installation is replacing an existing. New electronic controls save you from idea additional ceiling fan wiring. Three-wire cable runs from the fan to the switch box and the source neutral is spliced to the white wire and to the fan neutral. Secure each blade to the blade iron with the screws provided. If the box is stuck, place a ring of wood in the electrical box and tap the wood with a hammer to loosen the box. All you need is a screwdriver, wrench, pliers, and a ladder.

The determining factor is often what electrical wiring is available for the installation of the fans. Pull the electrical wires down through the bracket. An electrician's snake makes running this wire easier. You idea would be fine if it does.

Install or Replace a Ceiling Fan - You idea would be fine if it does. Switch Housing Screw two housing assembly screws into the motor housing it does not matter which screw holes you choose.

Turn off the power to the light you're replacing if applicable at the circuit breaker or fuse panel. Once this is done, only then should you remove the light fixture. This can be tested by flipping wall switches or using a circuit tester on the actual light fixture. If there is a pre-existing fixture, remove it and disconnect the wiring. A fan presents a dynamic physical load that is usually much heavier than typical ceiling fixtures that present a static load. Because of these two qualities, if a fan rated box is not already present, the old box will need to be replaced with one that is. If there is no central light fixture, determine the center of the room, using one of the below techniques. Fasten the new fan rated junction box directly to the nearest joist. The lines will cross in the exact center of the room. If you really can't get hold of a chalk line. Obtain a FAN RATED BOX from home supply or electrical supply store. It will likely be best to buy the old work not new construction style if you do not have access to the ceiling from above. There are two types of old work boxes; one fan rated box is designed to straddle an existing joist; this style can be easier to install, but requires that you find the joist rather than avoid it. The other type has an adjustable bar that expands to span between two joists, it can be a little more involved to install but allows more mounting location choices. Either type works equally well. After determining where you want to install the fan, assess your ability to get power to it. See the tips section below for some ideas for a power source. Adjust this location as needed. Next, cut a hole by hand with a sheetrock saw; just large enough to feel around with your fingers to check for potential obstructions for the box. This small opening will make patching easier if it is an unsuitable location. If your fan has a wireless remote, you may wish to feed directly from a 120 volt outlet plug. Better yet, install a new switch box and run a wire cable from the outlet and fan, wire nut the white wires together and the ground wires green or bare together with a wire connector and then connect the two black wires that would connect to the switch together - that would in turn feed the fan. If you ever decide to remove the fan and replace with a light fixture, there will be a wall switch to control it. Determine if a special mount is required. When mounting to a beamed or angled ceiling, some fans require specific mounts for pitch that may or may not be included with the fan. Select the one that best fits the application. Down rod extensions may be added to lower the fan to the desired level. The green screw or green wire on each switch should be connected to the ground wire bundle. Wirenut this connection and push towards the back of the box. Connect the power source cable white to fan cable white, wirenut and push towards the back of the box. With switches oriented to read ON and OFF single pole switches , connect a 6—8 inch 15. Connect the fan cable red to the top screw on switch 1, and fan cable black to the top screw on switch 2. If you want to vary fan speed from the switch box, you should substitute a fan speed controller for switch 2. A dimmer may be used in place of switch 1 to dim the lights. At the switch box: If using one wall switch, the wiring for the whites and grounds are the same as above. Connect the power source cable black hot to the bottom screw of the switch. If you wish to control the light via wall switch: connect the fan cable black to the power source and the fan cable red to the switch, since power is always available to the fan, it can be operated independently of the switch position by the pull chain and the light will operated by the wall switch. Reverse the wire connections to the switch and power source to control the fan by the switch and light by the pull chain. Follow the specific instructions of the manufacturer first. Most fan blades have a two-pronged attachment, using screws that come through holes in the blades and into the prongs. These need to be drawn up securely, but not so tightly that the threads are damaged or the laminated blade material is crushed. On many fans you'll find the prongs also need to be mounted to the motor housing. If this is the case, mount them before the prongs are mounted to the blades themselves. Install the hanger bracket on the box with screws and lock washers. If no lock washers are supplied, you should purchase some as they prevent fan vibrations from loosening the screws over time. The hanger bracket may accept either a half-ball hanger or a hook-type hanger, depending on your fan. Either way, the hanger is carefully slipped into the bracket. Twist the half ball type hanger until the hanger bracket's tab aligns with the groove in the ball hanger. To access the wiring that powers the light, loosen the screws that hold the cap on the fan's switch housing bracket on the bottom. With the cap removed, you'll see a bundle of wires. Of these wires, two will be labeled for use with the light kit. One will be white neutral and the other will be black, red or blue hot. Some fans and light kits make use of a plug and jack instead of individual wires. Pull the two labeled wires through the adapter ring, lift the lamp and make the wiring connections. Join the two white wires with a wire connector and the two black, red or blue wires with a wire connector to the remaining labeled wire bracket. If the fan and light have a plug and jack for a connection, simply join them by inserting the plug into the jack. Fasten the light kit to the fan with the screws provided. For the purposes of this wiki, a power source is any constant can only be shut off at the electrical panel breaker or fuse 120 volt source consisting of a hot usually black but sometimes red or blue and a neutral almost always white there may also be a bare or green ground wire, too. The neutral should originate from the same cable romex, bx, etc. This source does not have to be a new line run from the panel, but may be from an existing outlet or even the line side of a switch where there is at least two cables with a black and white cable in each in the box containing the switch. A meter or tester will assist in determining which is which is the line unswitched or source and load switched side.